Traversing Circuit Lahaul Spiti
Tour lasted from 15th June to 26th June 2022
Day - 1, 15th June 2022 - Over to Chandigarh from Moradabad
Distance- 348 km, altitude 321 m
I took a train from Moradabad to Chandigarh which took about 6 hours. Checked into CRPF Officers Mess courtesy my batchmate Dr Hanspal, who was also the organiser of the trip for the batch. After dinner retired excitedly all prepared for the Lahaul Spiti trip the next day when we would be proceeding to our first stop the picturesque Narkanda.
Distance - 173.3 km, travel time 5-6 hrs Altitude 8100 ft Temp in June 28/17 degree C
After breakfast we all assembled to start our journey for Narkanda situated at an altitude of 2708 meters (8100ft), situated on Hindustan Tibetan Road by tempo travellers via Shimla, on the way stopping at points for photoshoots and lunch. The military hospital, the orchards covered with nets protecting them from hailstorms, overcrowded Shimla city with traffic jams and some beautiful buildings with red roofs interspersed in greenery all around, did draw our attention. It was our first day so all were chirpy, and were intermingling with each other ready to pose seeing the camera. After crossing Shimla the lush green pine and Devdars provided the dense green cover to the mountains. It was a spectacular sight and differentiated Himachal from Uttarakhand. Video of the same..
By evening we reached Narkanda, checked into the hotel and proceeded to the PWD guest house to explore if we could get a glimpse of snow covered peaks but luck was not on our side as it had suddenly become cloudy. Narkanda is known for it's undulating natural beauty and skiing in winters. We spent some time clicking each other with the beauty of Narkanda as a backdrop before proceeding to have dinner.
A video of the activities is shared below
Distance- 167 Km approx (6 hrs journey time), Altitude - 8900 ft, Temp - 24/ 15 degree F
We were supposed to visit Hattu Peak but due to rains and slippery road the idea was dropped. I made a time lapse of floating mist and clouds at Narkanda which also reminded me of an old bollywood song carrying spiritual meaning" рд╕ँрд╕ाрд░ рдХी рд╣рд░ рд╢рдп рдХा рдЗрддрдиा рд╣ी реЮрд╕ाрдиा рд╣ै рд╣ै рдЗрдХ рдзुंрдз рд╕े рдЖрдиा рд╣ै рдЗрдХ рдзुंрдз рдоें рдЬाрдиा рд╣ै", before proceeding for the journey.
We descended to river Sutlej and drove along it visualising labourers and engineers working hard on hydroelectric power project for Himachal's development till we entered Baspa Valley at Karcham. Enroute Sangla is Sarahan which houses architecturally beautiful 800 years old wooden temple of Bhimakali having wooden, brass and silver doors. This is the same temple where human sacrifices were made two centuries ago. We were made to deposit our cameras and don yellow caps before entering the main temple. No leather items were allowed inside the main temple.
On the way to Sangla the roads are carved cutting caves through rocks making the journey more enthralling. At Karcham there is an hydroelectric power station on Baspa river and from here on we drove along Baspa River which had emerald coloured water.
Sangla is situated at 8900 ft and is situated in Baspa Valley of Kinnaur District. The valley is blessed with apple orchards, apricots, walnuts, cedar trees,
glacial streams, the fir trees and meadows. Sangla truly is heaven on earth. It has a sangam of Hinduism and Buddhism equating it to Zen Culture.
We checked into the hotel where the hotelier tried to cheat us by giving us three sickening rooms which were smelling of fungus with no views, probably the staff- rooms; out of the seven that we had booked. We had to pursue the matter with him with some financial negotiations to get proper rooms.
The beauty all around was mesmerising cheering our tired minds and we clicked incessantly before having our dinner and going to bed.
The video of the activities
Day 4 - 18/06/22 Visit to Chitkul and local village
Distance - 9 km, travel time- 1/2 - 1 hr , Chitkul altitude- 11320 ft, Temp - 18/ 2 degree C
The excitement mounted up this day as we saw the free flowing Baspa river from our balcony with snow covered peaks in the backdrop. We hurried up to the terrace for some photography. Took some splendid shots and videos; of the birds, free flowing river and snow covered peaks. We appeared to be in a dreamland and did not want the dream to end. Time constraints and the itinery forced us to the breakfast table before proceeding to Chitkul, the last inhabited village at Indo-Tibetan border. The approach was through a slender winding road with picturesque landscape all around; of streams finding their way down to join Baspa, waterfalls and vast Baspa river-bed at the foothills of mountains. We received a warm welcome by ITBP (Thanks to DIG Dr Hanspal). We then proceeded to river bank of Baspa river. Since it started raining we could not stay there for long and pushed off to the hotel at Rakcham.
On the way were many new upcoming hotels and homestays which would in future provide good options for staying for tourists in this heaven on earth. We also saw a higher secondary school building which reiterated the understanding that the people of Himachal valued education and understood it's importance for growth while still being attached to the roots.
On returning everyone else retired to take some rest, I on seeing the clouds had some other plans and made an attempt to set up my photography gear to capture a time lapse. Later on I wandered into the village for a chat with the locals and some clicks with them. Tried to lift a female's straw gathri ( gathered dried straw packed into a baggage) which she was taking to make a bed for her cows. She related how proud she was of her son who was a major in the army, a daughter in law who was an advocate and another son who was holding a high post in the govt services. The girl who clicked us too was good in her mannerisms and both interspersed English words fluently in their dialect proving their cosmopolitan and open approach to life, while still valuing and preserving their own culture and societal values. Had dinner and slept. A video of the activities I share.
Day - 5 - 19/6/2022
Rakcham to Kalpa- 44.4 Km Driving time- 2 hrs Kalpa Altitude - 2960 m (9710 ft), Temp - 18/7 degree C
Woke up early as had planned to walk around the valley of Sangla gathering in all I could of the scenic beauty. The board bearing the name of village perched against the backdrop of colourful houses and snow covered peaks caught my eyes. As I waited for my cup of tea absorbing in the beauty all around, 'click, click click' went my camera capturing the snow covered mountain peaks all around and the flowing river and birds. Soon I was on my way to walk along the path that led to the bridge on the river Baspa and beyond into the village. On the way I did stop to capture the beauty of the noisy free flowing river and snow covered peaks all around as also the village life and biodiversity that I encountered on the way. As I proceeded I reached the meadows at the end of the road onthe base of mountains with pockets of clear water. The landscape gave tough competition to Switzerland and I could proudly say that here I felt at home for here I was in my own country with my own countrymen all around. The people of Himachal were very welcoming and posed willingly for photographs. The presence of society feel was obvious and they loved interacting and were open to conversations. As I was alone caught hold of a honeymoon couple ( husband was busy on phone, wife was free) and asked her to click a couple of my photographs. Had to teach her fineries of how to use the DSLR ( though the settings were done by me), zoom in, zoom out to get the pictures right. On the way back met my batchmates proceeding to the meadows and admired the silent watchful eyes of the mountain dog probably seeking a pat.
Had some fruits and milk for breakfast before proceeding to get the luggage loaded as we left for Kalpa, on the way visiting Kamru fort; the oldest fort in Himachal which lodged the Kamakhya Temple built in 15th century. The temple is famous for it's wooden architecture. It lodged the Kamakhya Devi ( the idol is said to have been bought from Assam) and the temple is basically dedicated to lord Badrinath. It was not easy climbing the 1000 steps to the fort and the clicks which we took, gave us the much needed breath as we stopped to absorb in the beauty of nature that existed all around us. There were many families residing within this hill fort and one could see the Kinnauri women doing their every day work and some of the older ones chatting on the steps leading to the fort. We were asked to don a Kinnauri caps and tie a Gacchi (string) round our waist by a stern lady who later became friendly as we made her comfortable to a level that she even posed at the door of the temple for us. As we came down I captured some photographs of people busy with the chores of washing clothes and a couple of birds. A local as soon as he saw me pointing the camera at him, took out his chilam (cigar) and posed for the shot, asking me to send the photograph through mail. I lost my way but was not very far from the others who had reached the vehicle and was soon traced and led back.
On the way we had lunch at the local market and bought Kinnauri caps which would also serve as a memento. Kinnauri girls (ie us) were now ready to get themselves clicked, donning these caps.
The tempo traveller was ready to take us to Kalpa, with a stop at the suicide point which has vertical rocky mountains all around and would give a straight fall if someone attempted to jump into the gorge seen from the road. A board of I love Kinnaur was put up there which served as an appropriate backdrop for clicks for the tourists.
.jpeg "At The Suicide Point")
Kalpa is a town situated in the Sutlej Valley, located on the banks of the Sutlej river. It lies in the Kinnaur District. This town is famous for its apple orchards and some famous Himalayan peaks. Kinnauri apples are the passport for prosperity of Himachal and it's farmers.
We reached Kalpa and checked in but the peaks were nowhere to be seen due to the thick cloud cover. What could be seen was an expanse of apple orchards, some buildings and a thick cover of clouds. No one could imagine (even though mentioned by the locals) what lay hidden behind the clouds till the next morning. We had our dinner and before going to bed I prayed to God with full faith in his decisions, to clear the clouds.
Here is a video to bring out the feel that we experienced this day.
" In nature nothing is perfect but everything is perfect"
Nature sure went beyond my imagination at Sangla and Kalpa.
Day-6 - 20/6/2022
Kalpa to Tabo via Nako and Puh, 163 km Tabo Altitude- 10,760 ft Temp- 17/5 degree C
Traversed in 9-10 hrs
With the excitement brewing got up early and peeped through the window. It was 4 AM and dark outside. Lay down again and tossed in the bed with impatience. Got up again at 4.30 . It was still dark but the outlines of the peaks were visible and hurriedly I made sincere efforts to set up my camera for a time lapse to capture the beauty of the peaks as the veil of darkness was lifting.
Here I share it. The rising sun, the peaks as they come out of their veil, the wandering clouds as they change their colours with sunrise and the lovely natural lens flare
Time Lapse at Kalpa ...
So with all the good wishes of friends, we were able to view Kinner Kailash (19850ft), Jorkanden (21237ft), Raldang (19000ft), Shivling ( not the original at Mansarovar but a projection seen on Kinner Kailash) and Shrikhand Mahadev (identified and pointed out by our well read colleague Dr Parwathy Murthy) peaks as well as make a beautiful time-lapse. We then proceeded to Tabo on the way, stopping at Khab where the river Spiti meets the Sutluj river.
Spiti with greenish water meets muddy Sutluj at Khab. Sullej flows under the bridge to join Spiti river. We spent quality time there clicking some pictures and videos and relishing the oversweet hot tea and biscuits and then proceeded to drive on into the cold desert ie the Spiti Valley along the Spiti River. The mountainous terrain with the winding and muddy off roads looked forbidding and dangerous as were the rocks jutting out from these mountains which looked friable but that did not mean that we were fearful but were exited and looking forward to the adventurous ride. We travelled along the treacherous road in the barren land to reach the oasis ie Nako identifiable by the helipad and the greenery all around. Well crafted barley fields were seen which were being irrigated by channelizing snow melt water. We entered the Buddhist village and at the entrance was housed a big prayer wheel where an old female was praying and she obliged us by posing for a photograph of hers. We then after descending quite a few steps proceeded to Nako lake which had crystal clear waters reflecting the deep blue of the sky very well and tried to absorb in the beauty of the lake and the surroundings. Some selfies with the beautiful backdrop of lake were taken and the youngsters motivated for some bollywood style shots. After absorbing in the beauty all around to our heart's content we came back to the square for lunch and for shopping of local items. The govt rest house had a good restaurant which provided us with freshly made aloo parathas with butter, pickle and curd.
In addition to mud houses there were concrete buildings seen along the way that one travelled in Himachal moving from village to village. Plenty of orchards formed the lifelines. Tourism, farming and societal values are sure adding on to the prosperity and well being of the people of Himachal. A few of them run homestays, restaurants and provide all that they can to the tourists during the harsh conditions when the weather is not favourable. Our driver told us that education was highly valued here and even the remotest villages had higher secondary schools( one was seen in Chitkul near to the Indo- Tibetan border by us). Each and every house has electricity in Himachal, no matter how remotely it is situated and Govt takes good care of it's people. Some people had small cars too in remote areas for commuting and they preferred small ones which they could lift with the help of people and proceed on their way, if there happened to be a landslide ( How intelligent when the tourists travel in four wheel drives and sturdy ones for fear of the treacherous terrain and get stuck if landslides occur).
From Nako we proceeded to Gue Monastery which housed a Mummy which is 600 yrs old of Sangha Tenzin, a buddhist monk from Tibet who is said to have started his mummification process while he was alive. He was seen in sitting position with his skin and hair intact. As some renovation was going on in the monastery the Mummy was housed in a small building outside the monastery. One is made to take out one's shoes as a mark of respect before entering the Japanese style temple and the small building that houses the Mummy.
Tabo we noticed was a small town on the banks of Spiti river. We checked in into a homestay The White Lotus by Zostel. It was a very beautiful homestay with clean linen for a change, but the manager was rude. After freshening up we went for a walk through the fields to the river bank. Had a lovely time looking at the barren mountains, at the base of which flowed the silent Spiti river. Satisfied with some clicks in the serene surroundings we came back to retire to bed. I opted out from dinner as I was having stomach-ache and some bloating probably as a part of ? mountain sickness and could not sleep the whole night.
A hectic and happening day came to an end providing us with much more than we had sought. Nature of-course is the healer and it healed all that human behaviour had inflicted out of ignorance.
Here is the video of the whole day's activities
Day - 7, 21/6/2022
Tabo to Kaza 48 km, travel time 11/2 hrs Altitude- 12500 ft, temp- 14/3degree C
After a sleepless night was keen to get out and explore the surroundings of the homestay. As I came out of the room the homestay looked beautiful in dim light and drawn curtains. Clicked some shots of the interior and went out to put on my shoes for we were not allowed to wear shoes inside. Way to the river was blocked, by water for irrigation filling up the fields so tried out three other paths. In my mind I had planned to explore for a proper path that led to the hotel for a safe exit, for the path we followed to enter the hotel was not a proper one and one of the group members had had a bad fall but thankfully no injury.
On the way, had some stray dogs following me as I clicked to capture some flowers, birds that were flying around to make arrangements for their breakfast and to feed their chicks, and the village life. The water filled farms with still water acted as mirrors and I did not miss the opportunity to click the reflections of the surrounding mountains. The path was straight and well made and I just could not get why we were led by the hotel staff through the difficult one the previous day.
It was time to get back and get ready to leave Tabo for Kaza. As the manager was unable to provide us with sugar-free tea, I opted out of having breakfast too, satisfied with some biscuits that I was carrying and water. All of us safely exited through the proper path this time and boarded our tempo traveller. First stop was at the oldest monastery in the Himalayas The Tabo monastery; a beautiful monastery built on a levelled ground unlike other monasteries which are built on hill tops. We went about capturing it's beauty and while coming out noticed an all women group entering the monastery. With their permission we clicked a photograph together and congratulated them for indulging in travel as a lone traveller in an all womens group.
Next stop was to be Dhankar Monastery. It is a 1000 years old and the word dhankar means a fort on the cliff. It precariously stands on a friable cliff overlooking the confluence of Pin and Spiti river and it is a UNESCO heritage site. It has a meditation cave, prayer rooms and multiple rooms for the monks. This monastery is recognized by the World Monuments Fund as one of the most endangered sites in world and is currently in imminent danger of collapsing.
The confluence of Pin and Spiti rivers as seen from Dhankar Monastery
Few irregular vertical muddy structures stood behind the monastery and depicted the erosion caused by the environmental wraths and invasion that the monastery had faced. At the base of the monastery the buildings of Dhankar village exist which have survived the harsh conditions that prevail in the terrain.
Each one was now feeling hungry but we did not dare have it in Dhankar for the restaurants did not look inviting so we proceeded to Kaza. Good that we did so, for we had lunch in a wonderful restaurant serving delicious cuisines at Kaza before proceeding to check into our hotel. One interesting dish discovered here was "Yogi's Bowl" which one colleague had ordered and it was simply rice, baked vegetables and baked potato cheese mash. It looked so appealing and light in nature that we all wished that we had ordered for it.
We then proceeded to check in into the hotel and were again short of a room as one room had not been vacated by the previous occupant and we were told that the tourist had suddenly taken ill. On managements insistence the tourist came out and his cough, hunger for breath and history of fever for three days made us suspicious of Covid so out came our masks and we opted out of taking the room. The organizer family showed a big heart by deciding to take a single room for a family of four. The rest of the group went for exploring the market while I tried to rest and gather energy for the next day.
Here is a video of the surreal experience.
Day-8 22/6/2022 Sightseeing around Kaza
Hikkim - Altitude - 14400 ft, 15.4 Km from Kaza Temp- 24/3
Komic Village - 15500 ft, 4 km from Hikkim, Temp - 23/2 degree C
Langza- Altitude- 14500 ft, 10 Km from Komic Temp- 24/3degree
Kee Monastery (26 km from Hikkim) and Kibber village ( 31 Km from Hikkim)- Altitude- 13500 ft, Temp- 24/3 degree C
At Kaza the hotel did not have a proper management group as it was under renovation. The 3-4 people managing it looked like labour class trying to manage renovation and the hotel, so the food offered was awful with lots of oil, spices and all burnt up. Luckily we had bought fruits and milk which served as breakfast.
After breakfast we were ready to explore around Kaza. The first destination was Hikkim where the highest operational post office of the world is located. The winding roads uphill were all off roads and the difficult drive with many hair pin bends gave us little opportunity to get stable to take shots of the surrounding snow covered peaks from the moving vehicle, nevertheless we did succeed in getting some good shots. The original post office is in the town. The town is surrounded by green pastures and demarcated farms. The roof of houses did not have boundaries or railings but collected straw was put all around for safety as boundaries. The new post Office has come up at a height away from the village and tourists were incessantly pouring in here and clicking to get their best shots of posting picture postcards back home (They were being sold in the premises). I too couldn't help getting clicked posting a postcard.
Back to the tempo traveller, and we were on our way to Komic.
Surrounded by snowbound mountains and majestic valleys, Komik Village is the highest village in the world connected by a motorable road. This area is completely cut off from the rest of the country due to heavy snowfall during winters and the local residents store enough food to last the winter season as they avoid getting out of their houses at this time. They use the time in making handicrafts like carpet, shawls, cap, jackets, paintings, etc. There was a monastery and the highest restaurant in the world located in Komic which served hot tea and in that cold remote area we were obliged by the service. Komic village in Himachal Pradesh has reportedly vaccinated 100 percent of its population over the 44 years of age.
We retraced the path to Hikkim from here to proceed towards Langza. Langza has a 1000 year old golden coloured Buddha statue surrounded by a beautiful landscape of snow covered peaks and valleys all around giving a 360 degree beautiful panoramic view to the tourists. The statue overlooks the valley and seems to be blessing and protecting the valley below. Towards it's back is the Chou Chou Kang Nelda Peak forming the backdrop of the village. Some of the group members went into the village and saw that all the inhabitants were busy seeing the sky TV. Langza is said to have emerged from Tethys sea millions of years ago and fossils of marine plants and animals have been found here. We clicked some photographs of the captivating beauty that existed all around and moved towards our tempo traveller to proceed towards Key Monastery.
All through Hikkim, Komic and Langza, I had been looking for children but did not succeed as I wanted to take some photographs of the children as I found them cute. Had brought some drawing books and chocolates for them for I wanted to capture some candid shots of emotions. Our driver said that probably I would succeed in meeting some in Kee Monastery as he had seen children playing often at the base of the monastery. As we approached the monastery it was seen beautifully perched atop a cliff standing tall against the deep blue sky. To my dismay there were no children but young adults playing volleyball at the monastery and I did click some shots. The murals at the monastery were beautiful and prayers were going on in a big hall by monks who directed us to circle the deity through sign language. There were numerous rooms for the monks and as we climbed up-to the topmost storey, a monk offered us green sweetened lemon tea. We asked him if they had children in the monastery and he too pointed at the ones playing downstairs. I then asked a straight question about the age at which the monks joined the monastery and the reply was four years. I then asked if I could meet them. He asked for the purpose and I told him about my wish. He said that they would come in the evening and if I believed him, could hand over the items and he will distribute it amongst the children. I had no reason to disbelieve so I handed over everything satisfied that the children would get it but regretted of me missing a chance to click their smiles, joy and inquisitive eyes.
We then returned to Kaza to have lunch in the same fairly chic restaurant as all wished to try the " Yogi's Bowl" which had boiled rice, plenty of baked vegetables and baked mashed potato with cheese and gingerale for drinks. It was shopping time now and we went about the market buying some caps, foot warmers and woollen socks and fruits, bread and milk for breakfast the next day for we had to move by 7.30 the next morning and we knew we would not be served breakfast by the naive and clumsy staff.
Went to bed thinking if I was a traveller or a tourist and I leave it to the readers to make the judgement for my thirst for discovering all that Spiti had to offer was not satiated and the thirst had only increased but must admit that a sense of fulfilment did dawn.
Below I share video of sightseeing around Kaza and a photograph of Yogi's Bowl
Sumptuous Yogi's Bowl
Day 9 - 23/6/2022 Kaza to Chandratal (Altitude Chandratal - 14100 ft) via Chicham Bridge ( Altitude- 13596ft) and Kunzum Pass (Altitude - 15100 ft) ,
Distance 100 km ( 75km to Kunzum pass) Driving time 5-7 hrs) Temp 15/-4
We boarded our tempo traveller and moved to a camp at Chandrataal along Spiti and then Chandra river at the base of Chandrabhaga Ranges, on the way passing the Chicham bridge. The bridge is at a staggering height of 13596 ft and connects the two villages named Chicham and Kibber. Chicham Bridge was constructed over a course of 15 years, and was inaugurated in 2017. It costed a whopping INR 485.50 lakhs to get the bridge constructed. It is built over a gorge which houses a tributary to Spiti River. This bridge cut down the journey from Kibber to Losar by 40 km. We stopped here to have a look around and get ourselves clicked with the bridge providing the backdrop. I tried my hand at trick photography here and my friends obliged me with wonderful poses as each one was enjoying being part of the mischief.
We left Kibber behind and moved towards Kunzum Pass which was at 15100 ft and it connected the Lahaul and Spiti Valleys. We stopped at Losar for a cup of tea and were in awe of how comfortably people lived with meagre means. A young kid of the owner of restaurant( lady was running it) was listening to "рдирди्рд╣ा рдоुрди्рдиा рд░ाрд╣ी рд╣ूँ рджेрд╢ рдХा рд╕िрдкाрд╣ी рд╣ूँ ' on mobile and his intent of protecting the country was obvious by the gun he seemed to be carrying made of a straw. I offered him apples which he willingly accepted. Saluted his mother, and took her permission to share the video of the young would be soldier. I did forward the video to her too on her request.
On the way we did see some Yaks and pashmina goats and their play and also got some breath-taking views of Chandrabhaga Ranges.
As we reached Kunzum pass the colourful prayer flags wound all round the Kunzum Mata Temple provided a spectacular sight for a photographer against the deep blue sky and snow covered peaks. Everyone got busy clicking selfies and I too clicked the beauty all around with my ears open to all the stories that were being narrated about the place, by the tourists around.
From here we again boarded our vehicle to cross some hair pin bends to reach our camp site at the base of Chandratal Lake.
We checked into our tents and immediately left for the lake. The vehicles were stopped quite a distance away and we had to trek about 1.5 km to view the deep blue Chadratal lake. I was helped by the youngsters of the group by opting to carry my purse as I had a heavy camera too. I did manage to click the bearded vulture and Brandt's Mountain Finch even though my reflexes had gone slow. Tired me had missed two nights sleep so sat down by the lake and decided to make a time lapse if others opted to go round the lake. The look at the lake brought peace to my soul. I sat down to rest and capture in the beauty in my eyes, mind and camera. We decided to go back after about half an hour at the site, as suddenly it had become cloudy and rains were imminent.
Before leaving we did check all around us for any trash that we would have spilled for we remembered the famous saying; "Take nothing but pictures leave nothing but footprints." Some of us did go around the lake to view the beautiful meadows on the other side but I decided to stay put. I was again helped by the Colonel doctor couple who offered to carry my bag back as I trudged back slowly to the tempo traveller, both slowing their pace to accompany me.
All were tired and wanted to have a cup of hot tea to fight the cold. As there was no electrical supply in the tents and it was dark inside we all gathered in the dining area and ordered tea and pakodas. The light was only supplied from 8-10 PM as there was no electricity in the area and the tents were managed on solar power. Many young tourists were there inside the dining area and we all played antyakshari by singing Bollywood songs in chorus as we waited for the tea and the pakodas. We then went to our tents to take some rest as soon as the lights were on. Dinner was served at 9 PM and consisted of tasty rajma chawal. As the others went to sleep I wanted to try my hand at astral photography for the first time. I set up my camera on the tripod and took a few shots to judge the exposures and adjust the settings, and waited till 10 PM, when the lights would go off to take the final shot. I succeeded in catching the stars but not the galaxy ( actually part of galaxy captured not the complete, as from the premises the angle to shoot was not appropriate and would have to go more than a Km out of the premises to get the right angle which was not possible). It was funny how a youngster approached me to click his photograph against the stars and no matter how much I tried to convince him that these were long exposures and that he would not be able to stand still that long but he did not budge so after getting my shots right I did click a blurry one for him and forwarded it on his whattsapp. Had a good sleep after two sleepless nights at the camp with two quilts as the temperature dipped down to -4 during the night.
I try to share the beauty of the journey through a short video which I hope will help the readers to grasp the serenity that existed all around, just as the lake's still waters reflected the beauty that existed all around.
Day- 10 Chandratal to Manali 6730 ft Temp -25/18 degree C
The distance between Chandratal to Manali via Atal Tunnel is 100 Km.
I got up early after a good night's sleep and came to know there was no water in the taps as the water had frozen in the taps because the temperatures during night hours had gone to -4 degree C. I had filled a thermos with hot water for the night and used it for morning chores. As I came out, I noticed that the tents were covered with a thin film of snow. The mesmerizing mountain peaks against the dark blue sky, the colourful tents and the multicoloured prayer flags caught my eyes as I was moving towards the dining hall for warm water to take my medicines. All the drivers had started their vehicles to warm them up for the fear that they would not start. I was refused for water and told that I would get it only at 7 AM but after some pestering got a glass of water as I told him it was for taking medicines.
After finishing my packing and taking my medicines I got out of the tent to capture the beauty that existed all around. Soon the luggage was sent to be loaded onto the tempo traveller and we were on our way to Manali via Batal, Gramphu and Atal Tunnel.
Till Gramphu the road was at it's worst. It was all off road and it appeared that tarmac was never laid here. We travelled on pebbles, rocks, boulders, mud and uneven off road. At places it was literally just close to the river and in rainy season one could imagine that one would literally be travelling on the river bed. Streams, waterfalls and water from glaciers came down on the road at places and that was the main cause for the state of the road. The thought of what would happen if it rained was enough to cause an adrenaline rush but we were fortunate that nature God was on our side.
On the way we came across pashmina goats and Gaddi sheep and Rampur Bushair sheep flocks. Each flock was guarded by a shepherd and two dogs. We had to stop at places till they passed us. These roadblocks were rather interesting and much better than the traffic jams encountered in the cities. At Batal we had a tea-break at a dhaba where many tents had been set up. Quite a few trekkers and motorcyclists had taken refuge in these tents. We then proceeded to Gramphu. The way displayed all the natural beauty that one could expect to see; snow covered peaks rising against bright blue sky, slender streams making their way down, waterfalls and melting glaciers on both sides of the road at places even rising above the height of our tempo traveller as seen in the video I share. After Gramphu the tarmac road reappeared. We were now excited as we were approaching the 9.02 Km Atal Tunnel which is the longest Highway tunnel present above 10000 ft in the world. What a marvel it was and driving through it was a dream come true.
On coming out of Atal Tunnel we were greeted by the Pir Panjal Range and the sudden change in landscape from cold desert to carpeted green mountains at the base and snow at the top with pine trees reappearing gave a soothing feel.
We proceeded to our hotel on a hilltop which had a wonderful view of Pir Panjal range and had apple orchards all around. In the evening the group went down to the Manali market which was over crowded like any other market of the towns and did not appear to be a tourist place. I felt suffocated and was irked by my own wrong decision to come down after the soothing heavenly travel of Lahaul Spiti. Soon we were back and I was busy taking long exposure shots of Manali all lit up against Pir Panjal Range.
Retired early to get up early as had planned to make a time lapse of Manali as the sun rose to push the darkness away exposing the snow covered peaks and the city at the base of the range.
Travel is an investment into yourself and it was coming to an end as we would be leaving for Chandigarh the next morning so was a bit uneasy but the joy of returning home soon made me overcome it.
Enjoy the journey on the toughest road during the whole course of Lahaul Spiti trip as I share the video.
Day 11- Manali to Chandigarh- 306 Km
The morning at Manali was utilized to make a time lapse of the morning with the sunrays gradually lighting up the Pir Panjal and then gradually the Manali city. We had our breakfast and started for Chandigarh at 9 AM, driving along the fiery river Vyas. The travel was mostly in hilly areas and a few kms of plain. We had our lunch at a restaurant on our way where we clicked some pictures to demonstrate how elated we were to complete the journey. We reached Chandigarh at 7.30 PM. On the way deciding to cancel the train to Moradabad as it was at 9 PM the next day and the whole day would be wasted. The wait for reaching home was too much to bear and Jai was convinced that the taxi and the driver was from a reliable source and there was nothing to worry even if I travel alone. His only advice was to start early and so the taxi was called at 6 AM.
Day -12 - The happiness to be finally home did not let me sleep . I was ready by 5 and rang the driver and requested him to be there by 6 AM sharp and he agreed. Five minutes to six and I asked the bell boy to take my luggage down. Kept pacing till 6.30 AM and there was no sign of the driver. He did not pick up the phone and I had to call the tour operator who told me to ring the driver. I told him I had already called him and he was not picking up the phone. After half an hour came to know that taxi had been cancelled and a new one was on the way. I again got my luggage back to the room, had my breakfast and waited for the taxi. Rang him and he said he would be there by 7.30 as he was still returning from his previous booking. Finally he arrived at 8 AM and I left for Moradabad.
The driver was talkative and related how he had gone to a gurudwara the previous night and did not get a wink of sleep. I got a bit apprehensive but had no option but to proceed for Moradabad. Clicked the car number plate and driver's photo and forwarded them and my location to Jai.
The driver was jovial and started relating his story as to how he started as a labourer then with his good work was made a supervisor. He then joined a hospital and he and his wife started working in an orthopaedic hospital. He bought a second hand Wagon R for driving as a taxi and gave it to his friend who met with an accident which he got repaired by taking a loan and since he was not able to pay the loan that car was still with the person who had lent him the money. He then bought this Swift on loan by bribing a bank personnel and he related that he had yet to pay Rs 12000 per month for 7 years to own it. He dreamt that by his hard work he would free his Wagon R too. I was incessantly yawning as I was feeling sleepy but since I was alone had to keep him talking for I knew that he too had been driving the whole night and it would be risky taking a nap. Suddenly I noticed a car which was at times following us and at times overtaking. I became alert and called Jai and asked him to stay on phone. As I was relating everything the driver called someone and told him about the car. Though Jai kept the phone down as he had had a call I pretended to be continuing to talk on phone. The driver increased his speed and asked me not to worry as there were three of his group's cars on the highway one in front and two behind and they would be ready for any eventuality. He also added that the probability of any attack was less as the other car had a registered number with all India permit and only private car owners indulged in such acts. I suddenly remembered my own driver had a white number plate. He went off road on pretext of getting CNG for he said on petrol his average would not be feasible and he would be at a loss making me all the more apprehensive and showing full confidence I blurted out that he had not to worry as I would compensate. He was soon onto the highway again and could get CNG only at Noorpur but I was relieved as the car which was following us was left quite far behind. After we were again on the highway I asked him to stop and take some tea as he appeared to be sleepy. Twice we did stop so that he could have tea and pace around before finally reaching Moradabad and cannot express my relief on reaching home. Thanked the driver, paid him and stopped analysing the happenings for being alert is justifiable but being over apprehensive is not.
Thus ended an unplanned outing which was decided at the last moment. I am indeed grateful for all the invaluable lessons learnt on the trip; the most important being life is simple until we insist on making it complicated.
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